Torre Egger

Torre Egger
Elevation 2,685 m (8,809 ft)
Location
Location Patagonia, Argentina, Chile (disputed)[1]
Range Andes
Climbing
First ascent February 1976: Bragg, Donini, Wilson (USA)
Easiest route rock/snow/ice

Torre Egger is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile[1], west of Cerro Chalten (also known as Fitz Roy). The peak is between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain[2] and Cerro Stanhardt.

Contents

First ascent

In 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[3]

Other ascents

In January 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire massif, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at Grade VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with 2,200 m (7,200 ft) total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.[7]

References

  1. ^ a b From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in World Mountaineering, Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, ISBN 0-8212-2502-2, p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes.
  2. ^ Torre Egger 2005, Huberbuam
  3. ^ Bragg, John (1977). "Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal (New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club) 21 (51): 49–56. ISBN 9780930410315. 
  4. ^ Karo, Silvo (1988). "Torre Egger's Southeast Face". American Alpine Journal 1988 (New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club) 30 (62): 49–51. ISBN 9780930410339. 
  5. ^ Orlandi, Elio (1988). "The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal 1988 (New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club) 30 (62): 52–55. ISBN 9780930410339. 
  6. ^ "Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre". Climbing in Patagonia. http://www.climbinginpatagonia.freeservers.com/To2_mocho.htm. Retrieved 2009-05-27. 
  7. ^ Garibotti, Rolando (September 2008). "The Torre Traverse". Alpinist (Jackson, Wyoming, USA: Alpinist Magazine) 2008 (25): 52–59. 

External links